Saturday, December 28, 2019

NH's Abandoned Transportation Museum



I enjoy those things whose creation was driven by love - built with the same mindset whether one person was going to see it or one million - which was the case with the Beaver Brook Transportation Museum in Mont Vernon. The creators of the museum, Eddie and Beth Gilbert, were buyers of opportunity for all things transportation related, and after moving up from Massachusetts they began displaying their one-of-a-kind collection at their farm. Unfortunately they closed their doors nearly ten years ago, but many of the items still remain if you are a determined explorer.


A small stream separates the property from the dirt road that takes you to Beaver Brook, and I found three entrances that cross this stream and access the museum. Two of them - the collapsing bridges below - are no longer in any condition to use, and the third way in was the property's main driveway. Rather than make myself that obvious, I hid my bike in the woods and rock-hopped across the water.



Here came the first indications that this was a transportation related place. Running parallel to the river along the property side is an overgrown trail, and within it are remnants of an old railroad. Not a full size one, but one of those tourist ones you'd see carrying visitors around an amusement park.


I followed the tracks and soon enough found a couple of the engines. The Gilbert's purchased much of their train collection from the Edaville Railroad Museum out of Massachusetts, a similar tourist spot they frequented before moving to New Hampshire.



I wasn't about to pass up the chance to hop on board and take a few pictures of myself in the conductor position.


After playing on the trains I continued up the trail through the rear of the property, and being that this was a transportation museum it was no surprise when I began finding vehicles in the woods. I could have used my dad at this point, because not only am I sure he would have known the year and model of each one of these cars, but he probably could have told me a story or two about smashing one up in his youth.


I'm still not sure what this truck was, but I left a few present on the dashboard for anyone who finds their way out here.


I'm always respectful on these explorations, and because of that I almost skipped taking a peek inside this tarped building. But I stuck my head inside the door and was glad my curiosity got the best of me.


It seemed to be a catch-all of old exhibits. Among the many items was this trolley, looking like the last thing that's still holding up the roof.


At some point the roof will win out and completely crush this thing, but I trusted it wouldn't be at this exact moment. At one time this must have been a very elegant ride.


To give you an idea of the variety of things the Gilbert's collected - and as evidence I wasn't the first explorer here - I found this broken doll propped up in a wheelchair. Why either of them were in here to begin with, I cannot imagine.


In addition to transportation there were many items related to the Gilbert's second love - Christmas. This is the kind of stocking I hope to see under our tree someday, with the name Dave written across it.


After the barn, I finished my exploration at what I consider the greatest attraction of the museum. We talked about how the Gilbert's were opportunity buyers, and when this giant Santa that once stood outside a used car dealership went up for sale, they snatched it. You can see this Santa from the dirt road leading in, so a few months later I drove my wife by here so she could take a picture with it.


I still chuckle over how anyone could combine such unrelated things as Christmas and transportation into a single, and successful, business, but there are no playbooks to follow when you're creating something purely for the enjoyment of creating it.



Links:

Beaver Brook's official page: https://web.archive.org/web/20200809025704/http://www.beaverbrookmuseum.com/

For a video tour of the museum, and where I first learned about this great place, see this video.

Saturday, December 14, 2019

Exploring the Saunders Mineshafts



The Saunders Mica Mine began operation sometime prior to 1914, and ran through a variety of companies until the site was abandoned in 1944. Two tunnels remain at the mine, which is accessible via a dirt road followed by a short bushwhack through the woods of Grafton NH.


I almost came up empty on my initial search for Saunders - also known as the Haile-Buckley Mine - after spending an entire afternoon scouring the west side of the mountain where I thought the mine was located, but not finding anything. After calling it a day I was working my way down the mountain, but rather than taking the main trail I paralleled it about a hundred yards into the woods on the off-chance I'd find anything interesting. That's when I began coming across scraps of mica and other discarded rocks, and soon after I stumbled upon the mine.


Dusk was setting in about this time, so I poked my head into a couple of crevices but didn't do any underground exploring. One tunnel was blocked by a 20-foot pool of water that all I could do was stare across at wistfully, while the other one was open but would require a bit of rock climbing to enter. Happy just to have located it, I left for home and put a return trip to Saunders on my to-do list.


It was the first of December when I made a second exploration with my buddy John. We'd purposely waited until winter so that the pool blocking tunnel #2 would be frozen over, but we should have given it another month - ice covered most of the pool, but the edges were still open. I didn't drive 4 hours that day for nothing, though. Out of my pockets came the electronics, around my waist went the rope, and cautiously I began out onto the ice. I'd made it probably five steps when the cracking started, and suddenly the bottom dropped away like I'd been standing on a dunking booth. If not for a handhold I found against the rock I'm pretty sure I'd have gone under. It was several freezing moments before I could convince my body to start breathing again, then I yelped for John to pull me out.


Water that sits for many years without moving or circulating is some pretty foul stuff, and although he's too polite to say so, I'm sure John was happy we'd driven in separate cars that day. Cold, wet, smelly, and unable to explore tunnel #2, there seemed only one logical thing left for us to do. On to tunnel #1 we went.

While flooding has made tunnel #2 inaccessible outside of winter, tunnel #1 is accessible year-round. It's approximately eighty feet long and goes straight through a small hill, however its western side was never completed and squirming is required to fully traverse it. In this picture I am entering the tunnel from the east, or the good side.


Between its narrowness and low ceiling, tunnel #1 is more suited for someone my wife's size rather than myself. Add in the abundance of loose rocks, and the feel is that you're crawling through a natural cave instead of something man-made. After a quick exploration we called it a day, and I drove the entire way home with heat blasting on my bare feet.


Three months and several cold spells later, we made a third trip to Saunders to explore the final tunnel. This time there was no issue with the ice being solid enough, I probably could have parked my car on it.


At approximately 50 feet in length, tunnel #2 measures a bit shorter than the first one, but what it lacks in length it makes up for in height. I estimated its ceilings to be nearly 20-feet tall. Two wooden beams are wedged between the walls, and our first thought was they were support beams. But these were nowhere near the thickness of support beams we've found in other mines, which makes us suspect they served some other purpose, such as to hold scaffolding for a platform.


Having first located this mine in the summer, then revisiting it when freeze-over was not up to supporting my 180-pound frame, it wasn’t until this third and final trip that I was finally able to complete my exploration of everything Saunders has to offer.



Saturday, November 30, 2019

Graves of VT - "Big Jim" Fisk and His Four Topless Women



James "Big Jim" Fisk is as extravagant in death as he was in life. A self-made millionaire who quit school at the age of 12, Fisk earned a reputation as one of the country's most ruthless businessman, to the extent that the term Black Friday was coined after his 1869 failed attempt to corner America's gold market. Nearly 150 years after his death, Fisk lays in the rear corner of Prospect Hill Cemetery in Brattleboro VT, buried beneath four topless women.


Fisk was born on April Fool's Day in the small town of Pownal, Vermont. After a stint in the circus and time spend peddling merchandise with his father, he made his fortune through illegal trade of cotton during the Civil War, shipping it up from the south to be used in making uniforms and blankets for northern soldiers. Although just 36 years old when he was murdered by a business partner, his was the kind of life people wrote books about. There was seemingly no aspect of business that Fisk wasn't willing to jump into, and created by local resident Larkin Mead, Fisk's grave features four woman who each represent an aspect of Fisk's financial empire.


Railroad
The lady below is holding in her hands a stack of railroad shares.

In the late 1860's a bitter battle for control of the Erie Railroad took place, one which pitted controlling partners Fisk along with Daniel Drew and Jay Gould into a fight against tycoon Cornelius Vanderbilt, who sought to overtake it. Vanderbilt was steadily buying up Erie stock in an attempt to gain control of the railroad, which the trio countered by continually issuing new stocks to water down the ones Vanderbilt accumulated. This battle became known as the "Erie War". The issuing of new stocks by Fisk's group was completely against the law, but a corrupt partnership with the Tammany Hall Political Party led to legalizing these newly issued stocks, and Vanderbilt for the time being was defeated. Fisk then squeezed Drew out of the picture, giving control of the railroad to just Gould and himself.


Steamships
Holding another pile of shares, a second lady symbolizes Fisk's enterprises in the steamship industry.

In 1869 Fisk purchased the Narragansett Steamship Company, which included the popular steamers Providence and Bristol. Unlike many investors who preferred to remain in the background of their businesses, here is where Fisk's personality went on full display. Not only were the ships full of statues and other extravagances, but Fisk bought himself an admiral's uniform that was described as more costume than uniform, and in full cartoon dress he would personally oversee daily launches as the self-declared admiral of his fleet, a move that earned him the nickname "Diamond Jim".


Gold Coins
Holding a sack of coins, lady #3 symbolizes Fisk's dealings in the stock market.

Google the name Jim Fisk and you'll find many stories related to his shenanigans in the stock market. His most notorious move was when, after illegally manipulating gold prices, he so drastically crashed the market that September 24th, 1869 forever became known as Black Friday. His plan was to convince advisers of president Ulysses S. Grant that the government's steady sale of gold was crippling American farmers and that the practice should be halted, then attempt to coincide with this stoppage by scooping up all remaining gold. This artificial shortage would inflate the price, then Fisk would dump all his shares at the peak. In just days he managed to sway the price of gold by over 30%, but realizing what was happening, Grant released enough government gold to eventually stabilize the price.


Theater
Although she's deteriorated to the point I cannot recognize the emblem she once held, the fourth of Fisk's woman is a representation of his businesses in the theater.

In 1869 Fisk purchased Pike's Theater and renamed it the Grand Opera House, and between this and two other theaters he owned he had become such a fixture in the New York night life he earned yet another nickname, "Jubilee Jim".

Fisk never let things such as his 10-year marriage to wife Lucy Moore get in the way of a girlfriend, and one of his mistresses was the showgirl Josie Mansfield. Fisk moved his railroad headquarters to the upper floors of the Grand Opera House, then set up Mansfield in a residence next door. To facilitate the lovers' liaisons he installed a hidden passageway for Mansfield to pass between buildings. But as unscrupulous as Fisk was with his relationships, so was Mansfield. She had begun an affair with a business partner of his named Ned Stokes, and the pair came up with a plan to blackmail Fisk by threatening to publish love letters he had written to Mansfield. When that plan failed, Stokes confronted Fisk in the stairway of the Opera House and shot him twice. Fisk died the following day, but not before identifying Stokes as his killer.

After a public viewing in New York that attracted 20,000 visitors, Fisk's body was returned to Vermont where he was buried in Prospect Hill Cemetery, in Brattleboro. His wife Lucy lived until 1912 and, ever the good sport, was buried in the same plot beneath Fisk's women.


Both time and vandals have taken their toll on his grave. A relief carving of Fisk that once occupied the front oval disappeared sometime around the year 2000. But enough of the monument - and the girls - remain, to still tell the story of one of America's most infamous, and ruthless, businessmen.



Further Reading:

Brattleboro Historical Society: 'Jubilee' Jim Fisk and Brattleboro

Black Friday, September 24, 1869





Sunday, November 17, 2019

Fort Williams



The first time I visited Fort Williams was in the early 1990s, where armed with just a folding map and sense of adventure my wife and I made the one hour drive to Cape Elizabeth from our apartment, in roughly two hours. Several wrong turns aside however, we enjoyed it so much we've been going back ever since, most recently this past summer when we introduced the place to my parents for their very first time.


Fort Williams started as 14 acre sub-post to nearby Fort Preble, but by 1899 had grown to 90 acres and been distinguished as its own fort - named after the late Major General Seth Williams - and now included an officer quarters, barracks, a hospital, and even a fire station.


Fort Williams played a part in both world wars. During WW1 the fort was manned by National Guard and artillery troups, and during WW2 it served at the headquarters to the Harbor Defenses of Portland. It never saw action in these or any other war, but its guns were test fired as early as 1898 prior to the Spanish-American War.


In 1943 all guns were removed from the fort, and by 1950 it had transformed from a defensive post to an administrative installation for the military. The installation closed in 1962, and two years later it was purchased by Cape Elizabeth for $200,000.


Many ideas for what to do with the site were bantered about in the following years, with some going to far as proposing the site be town down and converted to low-income housing. Those bullets were dodged though, and in 1979 the land was opened to the public as Fort Williams Park.


One of the most beautiful structures at the park is the Goddard Mansion, constructed prior to the fort's existence in 1858. The Army acquired the mansion as part of its expansion in 1900, and it served as NCO quarters for non-commissioned officers. Time has taken its toll, and in 1975 the town offered the mansion up for salvage in order to have it removed. Fortunately for people like me there were no takers, so to make it safe for the public the mansion was gutted through a controlled fire in 1981, the basement filled in, and in 2009 the insides were gated by a protective fence.
The Original Rondinone Explorers


Fort Williams also features a magnificent cliff walk, a 1,700 foot coastal path that brings you not only throughout the ruins of the fort, but also past the state of Maine's oldest lighthouse, Portland Head Light, built in 1791.
Portland Head Light


You're not going to have 200+ years of history without a few interesting stories to tell. On Christmas Eve of 1886, the 188-foot Annie C. Maguire crashed onto the rocks of Portland Head, stranding twelve passengers and crew. Fortunately, all twelve were rescued safely by lighthouse keeper Joshua Strout and two others.
Site of the Annie C. Maguire Shipwreck


With regular visits here over the past 25 years it's hard to imagine there'd be anything left for us to find, but the place just keeps on surprising us. During our last trip my son and I went wandering along the southern tip to explore the rocks, and there we found some archways carved into the stone. Not quite sea caves but a pretty cool find nonetheless, and a perfect ending to what certainly won't be our last visit to Fort Williams Park.







Links:
Fort Williams Park
The ship that crashed into Portland Head Light on Christmas Eve
The Goddard Mansion


Saturday, November 2, 2019

Abandoned Yankee Siege - Greenfield, NH



What started as a way to attract more visitors to his pumpkin stand ended with an entry in the records books. In 2004, Steve Seigars' homemade trebuchet, a catapult tosser named the Yankee Siege, launched a pumpkin 1,394 feet as a first time entrant in the annual "Punkin Chunkin" competition in Bridgeville, Delaware. Seigars and his team returned for several years thereafter, bettering their own record to an eventual 2,835', in 2013. Other pumpkin tossers reached distances of a mile or more, but those were air cannons or other styles. In the category of trebuchet, the Yankee Siege stands on top.

The news section of the Siege's website has it's last entry as the record toss from 2013, and since that year the site has gone quiet - both the website and seemingly the physical property, at least on the day I was there. And although its top half has been removed, the giant wheeled-base of Yankee Siege still stands on display in the field.


I visited the Yankee Siege in the summer of 2019, and right from the entrance this place was one photo opportunity after another. These giant gates are the first thing to greet you as you enter. I didn't have my wife to pose in the picture for size perspective, but fortunately my bicycle was of equal height and able to serve the same purpose.

Seigars didn't just make these gates decorative, he made them functional. Walk around the backside and you'll find a door at the base of each tower.


Inside these doors were steel rungs, and they had just enough of a metal over rust ratio for me to risk the climb up.


I spent several minutes on top of the tower, enjoying snacks while ducking out of sight from the occasional vehicle.


Back when it was active, the Yankee Siege would put on shows chucking all things large and small. Couches, refrigerators, even cars were great way to demonstrate the muscle of Yankee Siege, and to show off the distance it could throw a pumpkin, Seigars built a castle out in the field as a target. I climbed down from my perch to go have a look.


Back when it was open to visitors, this drawbridge and the path leading up to it were beautifully landscaped and pumpkin-lined. Now, they are overrun by weeds and brush.


Eight people are credited with taking part in the Siege's construction, and they sure had a good time making the castle. Each of its towers has a chamber beneath it, and each of these chambers has a different painted scene.


Each of these chambers also has a steel ladder leading up, so you know what came next.


From on high, I was able to overlook the castle's entire courtyard, but a bees nest soon chased me back down.


But not before I had time to capture the ever elusive dragon-selfie.



Outside the castle a short tunnel leads underneath it, but not to any dungeons or torture chambers. These small rooms mostly just hold old props.


Although the castle was built 600 feet from where Yankee Siege stood, the trebuchet was tossing pumpkins in some cases twice that distance. That led to the construction of this tower at the very edge of the field.


A fake door was painted in the front of the tower, but a real door was in the rear. I was excited to climb up, but only until I saw that it was locked.


I kicked myself later, though, because after going through my pictures and zooming in, it looked like the chain was only draped over the locking arm, not through it.


One last really cool thing out here is this 10,000 pound spiked mace. As part of entertaining the public, Seigars would drop this beast onto cars or anything else that had outlived its useful life.


In recent years, the official Punpkin Chunkin competition that Yankee Siege once dominated has not taken place. 2014 and 2015 contests were cancelled due to logistical and insurance issues. In 2016 the event took place, but an air-cannon exploded and seriously injured a television producer, contributing to the 2017 and 2018 events getting canned. But the World Championship Punkin Chunkin (WCPC) non-profit that organizes this event announced recently that the chunkin will resume in 2019, and it starts today, November 2nd.

And soon we will find out, whether Yankee Siege's 2,835 foot trebuchet record will stand for another year.



Fun Links:

History of Yankee Siege and a video exploration, by WeRmudfun - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0-0BJ2ldFio

Yankee Siege tosses a piano - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_NJC7bCxxd4